Cead mille failte (a hundred thousand welcomes)
‘‘The Irish Pub’ is a must-do attraction for any visitor to Northern Ireland. Here you will find a huge variety of them – big and small, town and country, the richly embellished and the very simple. But they all share one thing in common – they retain historic interiors. Whilst most pubs have seen sweeping changes in recent years, these have not.
Many pubs have long histories and they may be situated in very old buildings. It therefore comes as a surprise to most people to learn that the physical things in the pub that really give it its character – the layout, the furnishings and the decoration – are rarely more than two or three decades old. This is not something confined to Northern Ireland. It’s the same throughout the United Kingdom and the Republic of Ireland where well-crafted, durable old fittings have been often ejected only to be replaced some years later with imitation Victorian work once tastes swung back! In fact, of the 1,526 premises with a pub licence in Northern Ireland at the end of 2005 we could only find 45 we considered had enough historic work for us to include here – put another way that’s less than 4%. With so few genuine historic interiors left we believe they are worth preserving and seeking out.
The pubs included here are very largely as they were before the mid-1960s (when an orgy of pub refitting and opening out began) or, if they have been expanded, this has been done sensitively and without destroying the historic heart. The survival of multiple rooms and old furnishings and fittings has been crucial to the selection. This is not to say that pubs not included here are not worth a visit: it’s just that what they contain is quite new.
Northern Ireland has six counties and we have placed Belfast & Lisburn in a separate section. The towns and villages are arranged alphabetically and the main pub entries have details of their addresses, phone numbers, if there is public transport access, traditional Irish music or food.
To help you make the most of your visits, here are a few of the things that make Northern Irish pubs in general, and these ones in particular, special.
Advertising mirrors. Many Northern Irish pubs, like Scotland’s, are embellished with old mirrors, usually advertising long-vanished spirits but also ales, other drinks and sometimes tobacco products. Some, like those at the West End Bar in Portadown and the Central Bar in Irvinestown are of epic size. Not surprisingly, most are devoted to promoting various brands of Irish whiskey.
McCollams, Cushendall - Picture: Michael Slaughter
Casks behind the bar. Both Ireland and Scotland have a long tradition of spirits drinking and this finds expression in casks mounted in bar back-fittings. In times gone by pubs took bulk supplies and decanted them into casks of varying size. Many still survive and you will find them mounted both vertically and on their sides. They seem to have generally gone out of use in the interwar period, although two ‘working’ examples are still known, one in Co. Kildare and one in Scotland.
Carraghers, Camlough - Picture: Michael Slaughter
Craic. The craic (pronounced ‘crack’) in Irish pubs is inescapable and it will be among your happiest memories of them. It’s an Irish word with no ready English equivalent but what is it about? Other customers and the staff will bring you into the conversation in no time and you’ll find there is banter, jokes and the general feeling of people enjoying one another’s company – that’s the craic. Irish pubgoers are a really sociable, friendly lot and it is often said ‘you’ll never be alone in an Irish pub!’
Live music. Traditional Irish music (often nicknamed ‘fiddly dee’) is a marvellous feature of the local pub scene and we tell you where you can find it. You will also encounter other styles according to the mood and tastes of the players. They tend to assemble mid-evening on regular days, usually from the middle to end of the week. The ad hoc nature of most live pub music means we strongly recommend you phone ahead to check times and days to avoid disappointment.
Nicknames. Don’t be surprised if you ask about a certain pub and are met with ‘Oh, you mean So-and-So’s Bar?’ It’s quite usual for Irish pubs to have two names, an ‘official’ one and a nickname. The second, popular name is usually that of an owner, living or sometimes long dead.
Clonduff Bar - Lowry's, Hilltown - Picture: Michael Slaughter
Opening times. The standard pub opening hours in Northern Ireland are from 11.30am till 11pm plus 30 minutes drinking-up time (Monday to Saturday). Some pubs in the towns and cities have late licences which allow drinking often until 1am. On Sundays the normal hours are 12.30pm until 11pm. Where we know of very restricted opening hours or different times between summer and winter, this is mentioned but we cannot guarantee completeness. Also, licensees may change their opening hours so, if travelling a distance, you are advised to phone ahead.
Snugs. At the world-famous Crown, Belfast, and some other pubs listed here, you will find a delightful historic feature that is special to Northern Ireland – a row of tiny snugs facing the counter across a wide alleyway. They usually date from late Victorian times and are wonderful places to have a secluded drink with your friends. In a snug at the Crown, at quieter times, you can press the bell-push to summon a drink to your table, just like the Victorians. Other pubs, while not having a whole row of snugs, may have just one, usually near the entrance, so that a customer could pop in for a quick one without the notice of the rest of the clientele.
Crown, Belfast - Picture: Michael Slaughter
Spirit-grocers. At a few pubs, such as the House of McDonnell, Ballycastle, Co. Antrim you can see traces of the traditional Irish combination of a shop and drinking place. A few still exist in the Republic of Ireland but they were made illegal in 1923 in the north in an attempt to dissociate the sober business of shopping from the less reputable one of drinking.
House of McDonnell, Ballycastle - Picture: Michael Slaughter
Uncorking the beer. Most beer in Northern Ireland today is a pasteurised, carbonated product delivered in aluminium kegs. But at several of the pubs here you will see reminders of how things were very different just half a century ago. The majority of pubs used to bottle their own from bulk supplies delivered by the brewery. They used corks (later metal crown corks) and applied labels with the name of their premises. So the de-corkers found on or near many a bar counter were originally for beer, not wine bottles. At O’Kane’s, Randalstown, Co. Antrim and the old bottling equipment is on show and at the Harbour Bar, Portrush, Co. Antrim they display one of the last labels printed for the pub before in-house bottling ceased. At the otherwise modern Moran’s Bar in Spencer Street, Londonderry/Derry City, you can see the pub’s corking machine.
O'Kane's, Randlestown - Picture: Michael Slaughter
Statutory Listing. A third of the pubs here are statutorily ‘listed’ which aims to protect them from damaging change. Grade A indicates a building of national importance, B+ indicates a relatively minor alteration etc. otherwise it would have merited A status. Grades B1 and B2 indicate buildings of local importance. We hope this guide will lead to more of these pubs being awarded ‘listed’ status in the future.
Public transport. We indicate where pubs are close to a railway station and also those on a Goldline express coach route. For Belfast pubs we show the number of the new Metro bus service, all of which run from City Hall. In addition there are many local bus services so it is possible to reach the majority of the pubs in this guide without driving. Bicycles can be taken on all Goldliner buses and NI railways for quarter adult fare. Unlimited travel passes are available for 1 Day; 3 days out of 8 consecutive days and 7 days unlimited travel. Full details on how to reach the towns and villages can be obtained by contacting Translink for all rail and bus information on 028 9066 6636 or by visiting their website www.translink.co.uk
Real Ale. Sadly, the number of pubs in this guide selling real ale is tiny and we encourage visitors to ask for real ale as demand will result in more outlets. For an up to date list of all known draught real ale outlets in Northern Ireland, some of which offer locally brewed beers. and also details of the successful annual Belfast Beer & Music Festival held in the Ulster Hall, Belfast, each autumn visit the CAMRA Northern Ireland branch website
A Word of Advice. If you are visiting Northern Ireland’s pubs for the first time you will find genuine local hospitality from both customers and staff and in recent times we are not aware of any problems for tourists visiting these pubs. However, please be aware that as a few of the pubs are still used predominately by one side of the community or the other you are strongly advised to avoid getting into discussions on such subjects as politics, religion or football.
The entries for these guides draw on the accumulated knowledge of CAMRA members and we hope to have identified all the interiors worthy of inclusion. However, with so many pubs across such a large area, there may be historic examples that have escaped our notice – if you find one, do please let us know. This guide, like the National Inventory, is an organic document to be kept under constant review and updated in the light of feedback and further research. If you have any updates, comments or suggestions for pubs to include in future editions, please contact us at info.pubheritage@camra.org.uk.